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Thi, who was 17 when we first spoke in late 2012, wore traditional Black Hmong clothes, colored indigo with patches of intricate, psychedelic patterns.Her fine black hair hung in a long ponytail over the back of her handmade outfit.On the concrete expanse before us, women sat on tapestries laden with handicrafts and tried to flag down tourists, some of whom bit — the stuff was cheap — some of whom just observed, often surreptitiously through their camera lenses.Thi’s tale began one day at her room in town, when one of her girlfriends dropped by with a boy she’d just met.The Black Hmong and Red Dzao people who predominate here are no exception; Sapa’s tourism explosion has engendered a new normal of interacting with outsiders, leaving minorities perhaps even more exposed.I caught wind of what was happening in Sapa in late 2012.I watched the video with Sapa O’Chau’s then-general manager, Peter Gilbert, one evening at the organization’s shophouse office in town.
At one point during the program, the members of Canadian pop-punk band Simple Plan sit in a circle with the kids and ask if any of them knows someone who has been trafficked. About a year ago, she says, her cousin boarded the motorbike of a handsome boy whom she trusted. “I dream of her a lot,” Ly says in front of the camera.The boy, shy, hung around the door, then left for a few minutes and returned with another boy.The newcomer seemed nice enough, and after they departed Thi didn’t think much of it.The most common scene shows a girl in a forest, trailing a male figure grabbing her by the wrist.“They may pretend to be your friend so they can take you away,” a tiny scrawl reads.
“So she ate the poison leaf,” Hoolihan said, and he meant it literally. “It was her escape method.” During the period in which Sapa O’Chau lost its three students, Gilbert had been running a tour guide class; the first two girls, the ones who set off together, were enrolled. But the third girl, Thi, actually made it back to Sapa. But everyone knew she had resumed her job as a tour guide, the one she had held before she left town about a year earlier. Thi had attended his class, but she dropped out because she couldn’t deal with the rules or keep from fighting with the other kids. He hadn’t talked to any of the ones who had returned about China. “I don’t want to stress them out.” I met someone who offered to introduce me to Thi, and she and I sat down one afternoon in the town square.